Approaching Kerak, you pass first through Wadi Mujib, a precipitous canyon 1,000 meters deep, guaranteed to set the mood for your visit. The fort itself is a dark maze of stone-vaulted halls and endless passageways. The best preserved are underground, and to be reached through a massive door (ask at the ticket office). The castle in itself is more imposing than beautiful, though it is all the more impressive as an example of the crusaders architectural military genius.

Kerak most famous occupant was Reynolds de chatillon, whose reputation for treachery, betrayal and brutality is unsurpassed. When a Bedouin 11died, his son a 13- year- old leper, sued for peace with Saladin. The leper king, however, died without an heir, and in stepped Reynolds, who succeeded in winning the hand of Stephanie, the wealthy widow of karak's assassinated regent. He promptly broke the truce with Saladin, who returned with a huge army, ready for war. Reynolds and king coy of Jerusalem led the crusader forces and suffered a massive defeat. Reynolds was taken prisoner and beheaded by Saladin himself, marking the beginning of the decline in crusader fortunes. The castle was enlarged with a new west wing added by the Ayyubids and Mamluk.

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